Agnolotti del Plin – the name itself evokes a sense of rustic tradition, referring to the pinched shaping technique that defines this classic Piedmontese pasta. But defining exactly what an agnolotto is proves surprisingly elusive. Recipes vary wildly across villages and households, with no single “authentic” version universally accepted. They can be small or large, square or rectangular, served with broth, butter, roast drippings, or even naked on a napkin.
This variation isn’t accidental; it’s the result of centuries of practical cooking where cooks used what they had available. Leftover roasts, seasonal greens, and local cheeses dictated the filling, leading to a dish that evolved organically. Some historical recipes even included rabbit, sweetbreads, or donkey meat, showcasing a resourceful approach to minimizing waste.
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The Core Principles Behind the Variation
Despite the endless possibilities, a few underlying principles hold true. The filling must be cohesive, not watery or chunky. The pasta dough should be thin, egg-enriched, and made with soft wheat – similar to tajarin, another regional specialty. The shaping technique relies on that thinness: too thick, and the result will be gummy. Too thin, and the pasta tears during pinching.
The “plin” pinch itself is both decorative and structural. A light press seals the dough, while excessive force risks tearing it. The goal is a clean seal that prevents leaks during cooking without sacrificing the delicate texture.
Building the Flavor: From Leftovers to Intentional Braising
Historically, agnolotti were born from necessity, using leftover roasts as a base for the filling. Today, cooks often build those flavors intentionally, as this recipe does with beef short ribs. Braised with savoy cabbage, onion, garlic, rosemary, red wine, and broth, the meat develops a rich depth reminiscent of traditional Piedmontese dishes. Cabbage adds sweetness and moisture without making the filling loose.
The mixture is then ground to a fine texture – traditionally using a mezzaluna or meat grinder, but a food processor works for convenience. The goal is a pâté-like consistency that pipes cleanly and holds its shape. Grana Padano, an egg, and nutmeg complete the filling, adding structure and rounding out the flavor.
The Efficient Pinch: Shaping Agnolotti del Plin
The plin shaping method may seem daunting at first, but it’s surprisingly efficient. A long sheet of pasta is folded over a line of filling, then pinched at regular intervals before being cut with a pastry wheel. This creates dozens of dumplings in one fluid motion – a far cry from laboriously cutting each raviolo individually.
Consistency is key: even thickness and evenly piped filling ensure uniform cooking. The resulting dumplings fold slightly onto themselves, creating the plump, curved shape that defines the plin.
Serving Tradition: Highlighting the Flavor
Agnolotti are traditionally served in ways that complement, rather than overwhelm, the filling. Common options include roast drippings (sugo d’arrosto ), brown butter and sage, in broth, or al tovagliolo – simply on a warm cloth with no sauce. When available, shaved white truffle is a decadent addition.
This recipe finishes the pasta in brown butter with toasted hazelnuts and a splash of red wine vinegar, nodding to Piedmont’s hazelnut heritage and brightening the beef’s richness. The result is a dish that feels both deeply rooted in tradition and satisfyingly modern.
Ultimately, agnolotti del plin represents more than just a pasta dish; it’s a testament to Italian resourcefulness and the beauty of regional variation. It’s a reminder that some of the best food comes from necessity, tradition, and a willingness to adapt.
